Known 105 shifter issues?

[Bean]

Hi all. Someone here at work just bought a bike with 105 from Cell bikes and they have immediately noticed a shifter issue for the front derailler. Essentially they have to put a lot of effort into shifting down and the mechanism snaps into place with a loud and not so subtle 'clack'. The sort of foreboding sound on your bike you never like to hear! Apparently this is a known issue with 105 but I've never come across it before. The shop is happy to help him out with it but it looks like it could be a component manufacture problem rather than an installation problem (a bit of Googling apparently came up with quite a few examples of the same issue). Has anyone else heard of this sort of thing before? If so, is there an easy fix?

[SimonD]

That can be a problem associated with too much cable tension, which is usually done in compensation for poor travel adjustment. If he can play a tune on the cable on the down tube, it could be a possibility.

[Bean]

He's possibly doing it now Simon... up in Rm 150! It's Murray. He's going to re-set the cable and adjusters to see if that helps. If not then he's going to get Cell to fix it, even if that means a new shifter.

[Nos131]

I've had my 105 front shifter lock up a couple of times. The bike shop said I was because the cable had streched and then because the shifter can be used for a triple ring it locks in that third unused position. Then if like me the first time it happened you try to shift again it can break a part inside the shifter. The way to rectify the problem is to loosen the cable and then re tension.

[Bean]

Thanks Brad, that sounds just the trick. I'll pass it on.

[tom]

I've had my 105 front shifter lock up a couple of times. The bike shop said I was because the cable had streched and then because the shifter can be used for a triple ring it locks in that third unused position. Then if like me the first time it happened you try to shift again it can break a part inside the shifter. The way to rectify the problem is to loosen the cable and then re tension.

Yeah, I'll second this. The 105 front mech has a triple/trimming ability so you can avoid chain rubbing if there is a bit of chin crossover between front and rear. if it isnt set up right it'll let out some loud clacking noises when you shift.
plus you can go Andy Schleck style and put the chain off the chainring by 'overshifting'

[_ABC_]

*holds up the Mythbusters style 'CONFIRMED' sign*

Have a big 'clack' coming from mine when I change down too but the actual shifting action is fine.

http://www.boyne.k12.mi.us/VI/mythbusters/nippy/confirmed.gif

[Bean]

I've passed on the info and the owner is more at ease. He's already had a tweak and things seem a bit better but is going to do a full tune when he gets the chance.

[tom]

on a thread hijacking note:

does anyone know the max teeth a cassette can have with a 105 rear de?

specifically will an 11-28 fit or will it soon appear in the classifieds?

PS thanks for the pic andy. it's dashing.

[Bean]

Tom, Shimano recommend no more than 27 for the 105 rear derailleur, whether you have the GS or SS cage. You could probably squeeze the 28 in but there'd be no guarantees from the manufacturer. Nonetheless, I have seen on-line shops selling the derailleurs and recommending 29's for example.

Maybe someone has a 28 you could try first? You might need an extra link or two in your chain?? Sparky might know the answer to this.

[SimonD]

Hmm, they're only supposed to be 11 min to 27 max.
http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/road/105_5700/product.-code-RD-5600-GS.-type-rd_road.html

[tom]

thanks guys.

could we keep it between us, i dont want it getting out that im looking at a 28.

[SimonD]

You can rely on us - no one will ever know this conversation took place.

[bosworth*]

I am envious of your 28

[Andrew]

I am envious of your 28

I am disappointed in you

[bosworth*]

the only thing better than a 28 is a 29.

[Bean]

the only thing better than a 28 is a 29.

...or a downhill

[Driver]

not having played with lowly 105 I cannot be sure, but equally important as the size of the largest sprocket is the range of the rear d. Most of the new stuff has an acceptable range, something like 16 teeth, I think sram can do 17 teeth and the older stuff, and possibly your model 105 has less, something like 15. So if you want to run a 28 you'll need to find a 13 - 28. Has to do with derailleur throw to accomodate the smallest and largest gearing...

PS you don't need a 28. if you cannot be competitive with a 25 or at most a 27 well you needn't worry about the hills (a la - me)

[tor.lattimore]

You can get Shimano road rear d. that can handle mountain-bike style gear ranges. I think Shimano calls them 'Long Cage'. If you're really keen, I'll ask the guy who has one what it is.

[Bean]

I think that's the GS cersion Tor. The standard cage is the SS and can handle standard 11-27 cogs. The GS is also rated for the same gear range but is probably the one you're talking about.

[Driver]

don't need it Tommy. By the way, good win tonight!

[Bean]

I liked Tom's clever pedal clip on collarbone. Scared the rest of the bunch into giving him the space he needed to take the solo win! Unfortuantely Tom, you were going over the line the very moment Mike came down, so glorious victory wasn't long lasting.

[Driver]

I can tell you the person on his wheel had a major sphincter pucker.

[Bean]

LOL. We could tell from the grandstand!

[TheCoach]

on a thread hijacking note:

does anyone know the max teeth a cassette can have with a 105 rear de?

specifically will an 11-28 fit or will it soon appear in the classifieds?

PS thanks for the pic andy. it's dashing.

I have made one work quite nicely with the "perfect 10" 11-34 cassette.

Note that due to the huge range (23T) your chain will hang limp in small-small combos or else it will rip the derailleur from the frame in the big-big combo (your choice, but I know which one I choose).

[tom]

come on boys, it was all part of the plan.

no long cage needed, ill just ride my bike.

[Simonsky]

Well done Tom.

But in all seriousness (not meaning to be a downer, but better say something here while I'm still club captain), clipping pedals on the corners is not cool. In some clubs there's a mandatory two week suspension for pedal strike, as a disincentive to push things too far, something I reckon that we should do in Canberra as well.

One thing that helps to avoid it is to lean into the corner, motorbike racing style. That will help straighten the bike up and keep the pedal off the ground.

Cheers

SimonN

[j_young_80]

I felt for the A graders on the modified circuit - as Nathan commented it was like being back at Kingston and i'm sure a fair whack of those riders never raced there!

[Andrew]

I felt for the A graders on the modified circuit - as Nathan commented it was like being back at Kingston and i'm sure a fair whack of those riders never raced there!


They were still in nappies when those races went down...:tongue2:

[Simonsky]

I miss Kingston (sans the gutters)

[bosworth*]

Well done Tom.

But in all seriousness (not meaning to be a downer, but better say something here while I'm still club captain), clipping pedals on the corners is not cool. In some clubs there's a mandatory two week suspension for pedal strike, as a disincentive to push things too far, something I reckon that we should do in Canberra as well.

One thing that helps to avoid it is to lean into the corner, motorbike racing style. That will help straighten the bike up and keep the pedal off the ground.

Cheers

SimonN


like the pictures at the bottom of this article?

http://pnwriders.com/general-discussion/124849-nice-article.html

[Andrew]

One thing that helps to avoid it is to lean into the corner, motorbike racing style. That will help straighten the bike up and keep the pedal off the ground.



I thought that to be standard cornering technique

[Driver]

There are two schools of thought on this, and both have merit. The motorcycle method is good for general rolling through a corner at higher speed in the dry, it's the opposite for trying to keep upright in the wet. I was a sceptic at first, but after plenty of experimenting and research it's evident that the body-over bike is better at maintaining traction in the wet.

The physics of centrifigal force effect the dynamic of handling differently between motorcycles and bikes. Having raced both I've over analysed this to buggery. It has to do with the weight and rev difference in the wheels/tyres and to a certain extent the footprint of the tyre.

What makes the tyre loose traction is actually too much side load/force in relation to how much down force if that makes sense. So you need to balance the two. Case in point you can actually corner on motorcycle at very high speed with little or even no contact with the ground on either the front or rear!

A great technique that I've observed on some elite riders is the 'swing-pedal', for want of a better description. Hard to describe, but it is used definitely - when the rider pedals right through the corner and at the perfect time sways the bike upright, without altering his line just long enough to pedal through the 6 o'clock crank posi.

Anyways, enough thread hijacking and I need to do some house be-arch chores.

[tom]

I can definitely appreciate the calls for pedal strikes to be penalised/called out. I've been on wheels when the rider has struck their pedal and I wasnt a happy rider.

Normally would pedal right through collarbone - ive got a prettty forgiving BB height - but a lapse in concentration while i was already thinking about how i would come out of the corner meant i leant too far over. Rookie mistake, im the first to admit.

[Bean]

Many of us have done it Tom and its a good lesson to learn. The problem come crit season is that often (especially in the lower grades) there are a large number of riders who don't know yet! Results in some hairy situations.

[Simonsky]

I thought that to be standard cornering technique

Well as Sparkles says, there are different strategies. But this is about keeping the pedal off the ground.

If you get to the stage that you need leather pads on your knees, you've gone too far!

(And here I'd like to show off my credentials, having outcornered and outsprinted Troy Bayliss -- multiple world Superbike Champ -- at the Tour de Tweed last year. Hey, I'll take the kudos wherever I can!)

[j_young_80]

If you get to the stage that you need leather pads on your knees, you've gone too far!


I'll say!